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PARIS — Schiaparelli kicked off high fashion season Monday with loads of glamorous frivolity and exaggerated silhouettes forward of the extremely anticipated present by powerhouse Christian Dior.
Schiaparelli additionally supplied surreal takes on classics reminiscent of the Thirties heyday of home founder Elsa Schiaparelli.
The temper on the first spring-summer couture present of the season was enlivened by gold accents and complex elaborations in entrance of a a slew of VIPs contained in the gilded atrium of the Petit Palais.
Designer Daniel Roseberry was in prime type, taking classical kinds and giving them surprising twists. A darkish tuxedo with stiff oversize shoulders was reworked right into a minimalist, space-age jumpsuit.
A bronze bustier reimagined as an enormous oyster shell rose up like a fan to obscure the mannequin’s face. Its beautiful pearl elaborations had been rendered in natural, crystallized layers displaying off the deftness of the home atelier.
Myriad embellished baubles — virtually resembling moist pearls — organically dripped off a blown-up bolero jacket as if it had been created for a seaborne princess.
The gathering was additionally reverential to the home founder whose distinctive model of frivolity charmed audiences all over the world. A large lion’s head — replete with fangs and bushy mane — added a chunk to this assortment. It was enjoyable, creative and sensible — a nod to Surrealism but in addition a robust assertion about the usage of fur.
IRIS VAN HERPEN GOES DIGITAL
Towards the grain of Paris Style Week, which is popping its again on digital, Dutch wunderkind Iris van Herpen mentioned she was proud to announce that as an alternative of a standard runway present, the model “exhibits a digital presentation that permits for extra artistic freedom and storytelling.”
Van Herpen supplied an in-person presentation of her spring assortment in addition to “Carte Blanche,” a stylized video during which she teamed up with French artist Julie Gautier to discover how female magnificence can be utilized as a type of management.
A limp pink gown, with sinews revealing inches of flesh, resembled a toxic sea creature, whereas interlocking circles evoked spiky coral. Billowing blue and silver parts of beneficiant cloth adorned a flowing robe, harking back to the natural inspiration of the award-winning couturier who designed for such artists as Bjork.