Written by Samantha Tse, CNNParis, France
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The menswear reveals in Paris have wrapped for one more season, giving option to a run of high fashion shows. Regardless of chilling temperatures and a debilitating transit strike, the style neighborhood got here out in full drive to see new collections from a number of the world’s main menswear designers.
This season’s occasion, which ended Sunday, supplied numerous firsts, together with the sudden debut of Usher’s brightly-hued hair and the much-awaited collaboration between Louis Vuitton and American designer Colm Dillane of KidSuper.
From celeb sightings to comedy reveals and — in fact — standout collections, learn on for our impressions from the Fall-Winter 2023 reveals.
Usher’s new neon ‘do
Usher with blood orange hair. Credit score: Pierre Suu/Getty Pictures
The Grammy-award successful artist lit up the entrance row along with his new head of flaming orange hair. Usher debuted his neon, ombre impact look on the primary day of reveals at Wales Bonner and was noticed once more at Bianca Saunders the following day. Sporting the complete opening look from final season’s runway, his attendance had photographers clamoring for a shot.
Geometry class at Issey Miyake
A dancing interlude demonstrated motion of the garments at Issey Miyake’s catwalk. Credit score: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho through Getty Pictures
Geometric shapes, with a robust deal with triangles, was the place to begin and the impetus for this season’s Homme Plissé Issey Miyake assortment‚ displaying the various iterations of how triangles and different angular parts may be twisted and manipulated into advanced silhouettes and patterns.
Signature pleats, in fact, had been in abundance from pleated trousers to folded detailing on sleeveless shirts and coats, and bigger, looser folds that fell from the shoulders on nylon outerwear.
The present was punctuated with dance performances that showcased how nicely the clothes moved, as performers wove in and round a light-weight present that featured — you guessed it — extra geometric shapes.
Jenna Ortega Channeled Grace Jones at Saint Laurent
Jenna Ortega attends the Saint Laurent menswear present in Paris. Credit score: Stephane Cardinale/Corbis/Getty
Jenna Ortega, star of the Netflix sequence “Wednesday,” stepped out in a black hooded, backless robe for Anthony Vaccarello’s first males’s present for Saint Laurent in Paris. The halter-style gown, from the model’s Spring-Summer time 2023 assortment, was harking back to Grace Jones’ iconic signature look. Sitting entrance row, the actor was visibly mesmerized by Charlotte Gainsbourg’s piano efficiency that closed the present.
Rick Owens orthopedic boots
Rick Owens took chunky boots to the acute at his menswear present. Credit score: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho through Getty Pictures
Rick Owens isn’t any stranger to assertion sneakers — his vertiginous Kiss platforms have develop into a cult merchandise. This season, the American designer channeled orthopedic glam with a boot that supplied a far chunkier silhouette up the leg, that includes thick padding held along with leather-based buckled straps. Chicest option to recuperate from a damaged foot?
Rosalía rocked Louis Vuitton
Rosalía stole the present on the Louis Vuitton runway. Credit score: Stephane Cardinale/Corbis through Getty Pictures
Spanish popstar Rosalía rocked the roof off the Louvre together with her electrifying efficiency for the Louis Vuitton vogue present, which unveiled a brand new assortment with its first visitor artistic director, Colm Dillane of KidSuper. The artist opened the present sporting an all-white outsized ensemble and walked the runway with a torch flashing the French model’s iconic monogram earlier than climbing up onto a yellow automotive and launching right into a rendition of her hit “Sweet.”
The Fall-Winter 2023 assortment featured a mixture of elegant tailoring, utility put on, sports-inspired separates and patchwork coats.
Grown up rave tradition at Dries Van Noten
A drum efficiency by Belgium duo Lander & Adriaan scored the Dries Van Noten present. Credit score: Peter White/Getty Pictures
Music has at all times been vital to Dries Van Noten. Eager followers will keep in mind his Fall-Winter 2011 present, soundtracked by specifically combined David Bowie masters. This season, the Belgium designer explored 90s rave tradition with a extra grown-up sensibility. Visitors went to a multi-level parking storage for the present, stacked with experimental musicians performing mellow techno beats, whereas beer was supplied from a metal cart. On the high, Belgium duo Lander & Adriaan carried out what the present notes known as “sophisti-rave” on drums and synthesizers. The hypnotic soundtrack set the tone for the brand new assortment that featured wildlife motifs, furry clogs, outerwear that ranged from tailor-made coats with nipped waists to outsized puffer jackets with summary patterns, and roomy 90s-era cargo pants.
Junya Watanabe unveils Palace collaboration
Junya Wantanabe collaborated with London-based skatewear model Palace. Credit score: Estrop/Getty Pictures
Junya Watanabe, well-known for his intensive listing of vogue collaborations, selected to have fun the various manufacturers he has labored with through the years — together with New Stability, Oakley, North Face and Timberland — in a predominantly monochromatic assortment. Additionally noticed on the runway was the unmistakable Tri-Ferg emblem from Palace, the London-based skatewear model, on a black half puffer half parka jacket. One other first.
The Swinging Sixties at Kenzo
Nigo’s third assortment for Kenzo was impressed by The Beatles, and scored by covers of the bands most well-known songs. Credit score: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Pictures
Kenzo’s creative director Nigo has lengthy been an anglophile, and his love for The Beatles runs at the least way back to 1999 — when he starred in an Abbey Street-themed cowl shoot for Loosen up Journal. Within the present notes of his third assortment for the model, the Japanese designer in contrast the garments to the storied “The White Album,” referencing the eclectic mixture of cultural and magnificence references drawing from the Brits, People and naturally, the Japanese. Staged in a Parisian live performance corridor, the present featured a vigorous efficiency of “Cannot Purchase Me Love,” and “I Wish to Maintain Your Hand” by all-female, Japanese foursome the 1966 Quartet. The brand new fab 4 had all the live performance corridor singing and cheering whereas fashions walked round their two violins, cello and piano.
KidSuper finds vogue’s humorous bone
KidSuper’s vogue comedy present featured a solid of comedians dressed within the new assortment. Credit score: Ik Aldama
Exterior the On line casino de Paris, editors, friends and vogue denizens had been packed like sardines whereas making an attempt to get into KidSuper’s “Humorous Enterprise” vogue comedy present, hosted by supermodel Tyra Banks. Impressed by Netflix’s comedy specials, a formidable lineup of comedians together with Jeff Ross, Emmy-nominated actress Yvonne Orji and French comic Fary roasted the model’s founder Colm Dillane whereas dressed within the new assortment. The theme was tailoring with a twist, from suiting embroidered with tailor’s chalk mark to painterly peacoats doused in watercolor brush strokes.
On his unorthodox strategy to runway reveals, Dillane instructed CNN Model backstage he desires “one thing that lives on, that lasts greater than these quarter-hour.”
“I at all times thought it was such a waste of cash for one thing so ephemeral. So, I’ll create ideas which have legs, and for this present, I assumed how cool wouldn’t it be to do that comedy present that I can preserve doing – what if subsequent yr I do that in New York? And the yr after, some place else?”
Sacai and Carhartt work double time
For Sacai’s Fall-Winter 2023 assortment, Japanese designer Chitose Abe collaborated with workwear model Carhartt. Credit score: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Pictures
Japanese designer Chitose Abe partnered up with workwear model Carhartt WIP for her Fall-Winter 2023 assortment. It was a joyful exploration of Carhartt’s usually straight-edged model, infused with Abe’s romantic and distinctive perspective. Pockets had been doubled and proportions had been distorted as Abe subverted the model’s signature choices — from inside-out wanting parkas with contrasting quilted padding and shearling panels to Carhartt’s iconic Michigan coats reimagined as mushy knitted jackets with gold buttons.